台江绣苗衣 Taijiang Embroidered Miao Coat

台江绣苗衣 Taijiang Embroidered Miao Coat

皱绣 Wrinkling stitch，叠绣 Stack stitch，各式花草龙纹 Various flower, grass and dragon pattern

（简）绣苗衣的红色刺绣与黑色底布形成鲜明对比，龙纹工艺十分精细，龙齿、龙舌、龙珠、龙鳞、龙翅和龙爪皆清晰可见，栩栩如生。此绣苗衣运用了皱绣和叠绣。皱绣先取7-8-9颗丝线编制为一种特殊绣线，这种绣线宽而扁平，形同女孩子的发辫。将辫线折叠并固定，便形成一种立体并厚实的特殊绣线，再用绣线盘出各种图案，让刺绣与底布之间形成凹凸感，制造恍如浅浮雕的视觉效果。皱绣因为色彩及复杂的工艺，刺绣花纹容易带给人们一团绿色的视觉效果，而这件衣服不仅构图复杂，图案还非常清晰立体，无疑是同时期的极品之作。该件藏品的收藏价值甚高，图案少见，构图饱满，具有极高的工艺价值与美术价值。

(ENG) Taijiang embroidered Miao coat: black base cloth with striking contrasting red embroidery. Masterful and vivid stitching of the dragon patterns enable the dragon’s teeth, tongue, scales, wings, claws and ** to be clearly identifiable. Wrinkling stitch and stack stitch are used. To create the wrinkling stitch, 7 to 9 silk threads are first taken and woven into a special embroidery thread that is broad and flat. The thread is folded in half and fixed with a silk thread through the middle. This creates a thick thread which could be used to embroider different patterns on the fabric. The embroidery stitched with this thread stands out against the flat garment, producing a bas-relief effect. Due to the colour and complicated technique of wrinkling stitch, it can often produce a green, messy aesthetic. However, with its complicated composition and clear three dimension patterns, this piece is anything but messy. This coat is one of the best examples of Miao clothing culture of the period. A highly valuable piece with rare patterns and rich content, the craftmanship and artistry of this coat are immense.

（繁）繡苗衣的紅色刺繡與黑色底布形成鮮明對比，龍紋工藝十分精細，龍齒、龍舌、龍珠、龍鱗、龍翅和龍爪皆清晰可見，栩栩如生。此繡苗衣運用了皺繡和疊繡。皺繡先取7-8-9顆絲線編制為一種特殊繡線，這種繡線寬而扁平，形同女孩子的髮辮。將辮線折疊並固定，便形成一種立體並厚實的特殊繡線，再用繡線盤出各種圖案，讓刺繡與底布之間形成凹凸感，製造恍如淺浮雕的視覺效果。皺繡因為色彩及復雜的工藝，刺繡花紋容易帶給人們一團綠色的視覺效果，而這件衣服不僅構圖複雜，圖案還非常清晰立體，無疑是同時期的極品之作。該件藏品的收藏價值甚高，圖案少見，構圖飽滿，具有極高的工藝價值與美術價值。

苗族 The Miao

上世纪50年代 Last century 50s

贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection

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贵州黔东南苗族侗族自治州台江县 Guizhou Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture Taijiang County