布依族贯首服 The Bouyei Robe

布依族贯首服 The Bouyei Robe

挑花 Crossing stitch，数纱绣 Counted thread stitch，井字纹 Oxford pattern，冰花纹 Ice flake pattern，几何蝴蝶纹 Geometric butterfly pattern，曲折纹 Zigzag pattern

（简）贯首衣只用了黑白灰的颜色，对称的刺绣部分细致繁复，简约而不简单。此贯首衣运用了挑花和数纱绣。最早有关贯首衣的记载在<旧唐书南平僚传>中有记载，妇女横布两幅，穿中而贯其首。这种衣服款式苗族，壮族，布依族常见，将衣服裁剪为几何形，是因面料珍贵，布幅宽度限制，尽量减少因裁剪而造成的布料浪费，是民间妇女「物尽其用」的智慧体现。

(ENG) The Bouyei robe: black, grey and white fabric. Crossing stitch and counted thread stitch are used. The symmetrical embroidery is fine and ornate. The earliest documentation of the Bouyei robe can be found in the Old Book of Tang Nanping Rau Biography, which states that “women take out two long [pieces of] cloth, stitch them together and wear them by pulling them over their heads”. The Miao, the Zhuang and the Bouyei all used this style of clothing. The fabric used is expensive and precious, and clothes are cut by women into geometric patterns to maximise every portion of the fabric and minimise waste, demonstrating folk wisdom.

（繁）貫首衣只用了黑白灰的顏色，對稱的刺繡部分細緻繁複，簡約而不簡單。此貫首衣運用了挑花和數紗繡。最早有關貫首衣的記載在<舊唐書南平僚傳>中有記載，婦女橫布兩幅，穿中而貫其首。這種衣服款式苗族，壯族，布依族常見，將衣服裁剪為幾何形，是因面料珍貴，布幅寬度限制，盡量減少因裁剪而造成的布料浪費，是民間婦女「物盡其用」的智慧體現。

布依族 The Bouyei

上世纪50年代 Last century 50s

贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection

#1425

贵阳市乌当区 Guiyang Wudang District