雷山苗衣 Leishan Miao Coat

雷山苗衣 Leishan Miao Coat

皱绣 Wrinkling stitch，辫绣 Couched braid stitch，叠绣 Stack stitch，九翅飞龙 Nine-winged dragon，蝴蝶妈妈 Butterfly pattern，鱼纹 Fish pattern，斜山字纹 Oblique strips pattern，莲花纹 Water-lily pattern，荷花纹 Lotus pattern

（简）苗衣采用了传统古法布料——小斗纹布，在领口、肩部和衣袖绣有图案。此苗衣运用了皱绣、辫绣和叠绣。斜山字纹也是古代回纹的一种表相，常作为雷山地区苗族绣花衣衣襟部分的主要图案出现，图案回环反复，连绵不断，代表着富贵长久之意。皱绣先取7-8-9颗丝线编制为一种特殊绣线，这种绣线宽而扁平，形同女孩子的发辫。将辫线折叠并固定，便形成一种立体并厚实的特殊绣线，再用绣线盘出各种图案，让刺绣与底布之间形成凹凸感，制造恍如浅浮雕的视觉效果。该件藏品的收藏价值甚高，构图饱满，图案罕见，做工非常精细。

(ENG) Leishan Miao coat: traditional fabric with a unique criss-cross pattern. Embroidery is stitched on the collar, shoulder area and the sleeves. Wrinkling stitch, couched braid stitch and slack stitch are used. Tilted shan pattern, which is also a type of circular letter pattern, is commonly used by the Miao in the Leishan region as the main placket pattern on their embroidered clothes. These patterns are continuous and repetitive to symbolize longevity and prosperity. For the wrinkling stitch, 7 to 9 silk threads are taken and woven into a special embroidery thread. This thread is broad and flat, akin to a girl’s long ponytail. The thread is folded in half and fixed with a silk thread through the middle. This creates a three dimensional thick thread which can be used to embroider different patterns onto the fabric. The embroidery stitched with this thread stands out against the flat garment, producing a bas-relief effect. With its exquisite craftsmanship, a rare pattern and rich composition this piece is highly collectable.

（繁）苗衣採用了傳統古法布料——小鬥紋布，在領口、肩部和衣袖繡有圖案。此苗衣運用了皺繡、辮繡和疊繡。斜山字紋也是古代迴紋的一種表相，常作為雷山地區苗族繡花衣衣襟部分的主要圖案出現，圖案回環反复，連綿不斷，代表著富貴長久之意。皺繡先取7-8-9顆絲線編制為一種特殊繡線，這種繡線寬而扁平，形同女孩子的髮辮。將辮線折疊並固定，便形成一種立體並厚實的特殊繡線，再用繡線盤出各種圖案，讓刺繡與底布之間形成凹凸感，製造恍如淺浮雕的視覺效果。該件藏品的收藏價值甚高，構圖飽滿，圖案罕見，做工非常精細。

苗族 The Miao

晚清 Late Qing Dynasty

贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection

#26

贵州黔东南苗族侗族自治州雷山县 Guizhou Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture Leishan County