侗族螺丝衣（套装）The Dong Costume (set)
Dublin Core
Title
侗族螺丝衣（套装）The Dong Costume (set)
Subject
刺花 Satin stitch，织锦 Brocade，螺旋纹 Whirlpool pattern，龙纹 Dragon pattern，云雷纹 Fret pattern
Description
（简）螺丝衣的底色过于深沉，用金色的丝线刺绣，便能将服饰上的图案衬托得更加醒目亮丽。此螺丝衣运用了刺花和织锦。该套服饰由于年代十分久远，金色丝线颜色虽有褪去，但前胸和后背上精美的刺绣图案仍任在告诉人们它曾经的风采。尤其是两条无拘无束的绣龙，仿佛在游弋一般。至于那些螺旋纹则有待考证，有人说是牛头漩，有人说是漩涡纹，有人说是螺丝。我们推测是回纹的一种，成S状围绕。衣服下摆的织锦为素锦，图案也是中国非常古老的几何纹——雷纹的一种。
(ENG) Dong costume: embroidered with golden coloured silk threads on a dark base colour, the sharp contrast of colours adds brightness to the patterns, making it more eye-catching. Satin stitch and brocade are used. Although the colour of the golden thread has faded with time, the exquisite embroidery gives hints of the former glamour of this costume. The two embroidered dragons are elegantly portrayed as soaring unfettered in the sky. While the whirlpool patterns are thought by some to be designed to mimic a bull’s head, others suggest that they are swirls or spirals, but no firm meaning has yet been confirmed. Our guess is that it is a circular letter pattern that forms an ‘S’ shape. The plain brocade on the hem of the dress features a fret pattern, one of the most ancient of Chinese geometric patterns.
（繁）螺絲衣的底色過於深沉，用金色的絲線刺繡，便能將服飾上的圖案襯托得更加醒目亮麗。此螺絲衣運用了刺花和織錦。該套服飾由於年代十分久遠，金色絲線顏色雖有褪去，但前胸和後背上精美的刺繡圖案仍任在告訴人們它曾經的風采。尤其是兩條無拘無束的繡龍，彷彿在游弋一般。至於那些螺旋紋則有待考證，有人說是牛頭漩，有人說是漩渦紋，有人說是螺絲。我們推測是迴紋的一種，成S狀圍繞。衣服下擺的織錦為素錦，圖案也是中國非常古老的幾何紋——雷紋的一種。
(ENG) Dong costume: embroidered with golden coloured silk threads on a dark base colour, the sharp contrast of colours adds brightness to the patterns, making it more eye-catching. Satin stitch and brocade are used. Although the colour of the golden thread has faded with time, the exquisite embroidery gives hints of the former glamour of this costume. The two embroidered dragons are elegantly portrayed as soaring unfettered in the sky. While the whirlpool patterns are thought by some to be designed to mimic a bull’s head, others suggest that they are swirls or spirals, but no firm meaning has yet been confirmed. Our guess is that it is a circular letter pattern that forms an ‘S’ shape. The plain brocade on the hem of the dress features a fret pattern, one of the most ancient of Chinese geometric patterns.
（繁）螺絲衣的底色過於深沉，用金色的絲線刺繡，便能將服飾上的圖案襯托得更加醒目亮麗。此螺絲衣運用了刺花和織錦。該套服飾由於年代十分久遠，金色絲線顏色雖有褪去，但前胸和後背上精美的刺繡圖案仍任在告訴人們它曾經的風采。尤其是兩條無拘無束的繡龍，彷彿在游弋一般。至於那些螺旋紋則有待考證，有人說是牛頭漩，有人說是漩渦紋，有人說是螺絲。我們推測是迴紋的一種，成S狀圍繞。衣服下擺的織錦為素錦，圖案也是中國非常古老的幾何紋——雷紋的一種。
Creator
侗族 The Dong
Date
晚清 Late Qing Dynasty
Rights
贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection
Identifier
#308
Coverage
贵州黔东南苗族侗族自治州黎平县九潮镇 Guizhou Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture Jiuchao Town
Collection
Citation
侗族 The Dong, “侗族螺丝衣（套装）The Dong Costume (set),” Gifts from Lanmama: Intangible Cultural Heritage of Ethnic Minorities in Guizhou 兰妈妈的礼物——贵州少数民族传统绣织染非遗技艺, accessed November 23, 2024, https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/items/show/84.