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                  <text>3. 刺绣 Embroidery</text>
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                <text>雷山文字衣 Leishan Chinese Characters Clothing</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------wrinkling-stitch"&gt;皱绣 Wrinkling stitch&lt;/a&gt;，&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------stem-stitch"&gt;轴绣 Stem stitch&lt;/a&gt;，&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------counted-thread-stitc"&gt;数纱绣 Counted thread stitch&lt;/a&gt;，&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------stack-stitch"&gt;叠绣 Stack stitch&lt;/a&gt;，文字 Chinese characters，囍福 Fortune pattern，盘长 Shrivatsa，寿纹 Shou pattern</text>
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                <text>（简）文字衣的领口、肩部和袖子采用红色底布，上面绣满文字刺绣，在黑色袖口和下摆的衬托下分外夺目耀眼。此文字衣运用了皱绣、轴绣、数纱绣和叠绣。文字衣绣有各种吉祥图案，如盘长、寿纹，以及文字——「功成精巧」。文字刺绣是该藏品的最大特色，制作者将文字变成图纹，例如袖子上被压成三角形的「福」字，甚具创意和想像力。这件藏品绣法多样，文字信息丰富，收藏价值甚高。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Leishan Chinese characters clothing: red base fabric for the collar, shoulder area and sleeves, embroidered with Chinese characters. The characters are particularly dazzling and eye catching against the black cuffs and hem. Wrinkling stitch, stem stitch, counted thread stitch and stack stitch are used. Embroidered auspicious patterns include Shrivatsa, Shou and the Chinese text “功成精巧” , which means ‘achievement and exquisiteness’. Text embroidery is the most iconic feature of this piece. With great creativity and imagination, the creator has turned characters into patterns, such as the “福” character pressed into a triangle on the sleeves. This piece makes use of various stitching techniques with rich text messages and is a highly valuable part of the collection.&#13;
&#13;
（繁）文字衣的領口、肩部和袖子採用紅色底布，上面繡滿文字刺繡，在黑色袖口和下擺的襯托下分外奪目耀眼。此文字衣運用了皺繡、軸繡、數紗繡和疊繡。文字衣繡有各種吉祥圖案，如盤長、壽紋，以及文字——「功成精巧」。文字刺繡是該藏品的最大特色，製作者將文字變成圖紋，例如袖子上被壓成三角形的「福」字，甚具創意和想像力。這件藏品繡法多樣，文字信息豐富，收藏價值甚高。</text>
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                <text>苗族 The Miao</text>
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                <text>晚清 Late Qing Dynasty</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/items/show/101"&gt;雷山文字衣 Leishan Chinese Characters Clothing (#27)&lt;/a&gt;</text>
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                <text>贵州黔东南苗族侗族自治州雷山县 Guizhou Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture Leishan County </text>
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                  <text>3. 刺绣 Embroidery</text>
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                <text>小花苗披肩 The Xiaohua Miao Shawl</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------crossing-stitch"&gt;挑花 Crossing stitch&lt;/a&gt;，&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------splicing-stitch"&gt;镶拼 Splicing stitch&lt;/a&gt;</text>
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                <text>（简）披肩主要采用了红色调和黄色调的丝线，鲜艳夺目，活泼明亮。此披肩运用了挑花和镶拼。刺绣图案为各种排列方式的正方形和长方形，并用线条和几何图形填满矩形。除了主色调的红色和黄色，制作者也加入了其他颜色的丝线，如深红色、橙色和绿色，令刺绣图案更有层次感，披肩颜色也更为丰富。披肩的整体构图左右对称，绣纹排列工整，做工十分精细，可见制作者的认真态度和高超技艺。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Shawl: bright, vibrant and eye catching shawl embroidered with red and yellow toned thread. Crossing stitch and splicing stitch are used. Embroidery patterns are various arrangements of squares and rectangles filled with lines and geometric shapes. Other than the main colour tones of red and yellow, embroidery threads in other shades such as deep red, orange and green are added to create a sumptuous layering effect. Composition of the shawl is bilaterally symmetrical, with neatly arranged embroidered patterns. The shawl is intricately made and displays a high level of craftsmanship.  &#13;
&#13;
（繁）披肩主要採用了紅色調和黃色調的絲線，鮮豔奪目，活潑明亮。此披肩運用了挑花和鑲拼。刺繡圖案為各種排列方式的正方形和長方形，並用線條和幾何圖形填滿矩形。除了主色調的紅色和黃色，製作者也加入了其他顏色的絲線，如深紅色、橙色和綠色，令刺繡圖案更有層次感，披肩顏色也更為豐富。披肩的整體構圖左右對稱，繡紋排列工整，做工十分精細，可見製作者的認真態度和高超技藝。</text>
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                <text>苗族 The Miao</text>
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                <text>晚清 Late Qing Dynasty</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>六盘水市六枝特区 Liupen Liuzhi Special District </text>
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                  <text>3. 刺绣 Embroidery</text>
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                <text>侗族大洋袋 The Dong Purse</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------knot-stitch"&gt;打籽绣 Knot stitch&lt;/a&gt;，龙 Dragon，蝴蝶 Butterfly，山羊 Goat，麒麟 Kylin，脊宇鸟 Divine bird</text>
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                <text>（简）大洋袋采用了红色的底布，上面绣有丰富多样的动物图纹，如龙、麒麟、脊宇鸟等等，画面非常热闹，绣出了大自然一派生机盎然的景象。此大洋袋运用了打籽绣。侗族打籽绣技艺繁复，先用丝线先将图案勾绣出轮廓，再用打籽绣技法填充轮廓内部。绣针从背面向正面刺上来后，将针尖在丝线底脚卷上两转，绕成颗粒状小圈，形成一粒籽，周而复始，直到这样的小籽密密麻麻布满整个图案内部，故而得名打籽绣。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Dong purse: red base cloth with rich and diverse embroidered animal patterns including dragons, kylins and divine birds. The bustling scene showcases the vibrancy of the natural world. Knot stitch is used. To create the complicated Dong knot stitch, a silk thread is used to outline the pattern first, and then the knot stitch technique is used to fill in the pattern. When making the knot stitch, the needle should be pierced from the back of the fabric to the front, and the tip of the needle should be looped twice on the bottom of the silk thread in a small granular circle about the size of a seed. This process is repeated until the small knots densely cover the entire pattern, hence the name ‘knot stitch’. &#13;
&#13;
（繁）大洋袋採用了紅色的底布，上面繡有豐富多樣的動物圖紋，如龍、麒麟、脊宇鳥等等，畫面非常熱鬧，繡出了大自然一派生機盎然的景象。此大洋袋運用了打籽繡。侗族打籽繡技藝繁複，先用絲線先將圖案勾繡出輪廓，再用打籽繡技法填充輪廓內部。繡針從背面向正面刺上來後，將針尖在絲線底腳卷上兩轉，繞成顆粒狀小圈，形成一粒籽，周而復始，直到這樣的小籽密密麻麻佈滿整個圖案內部，故而得名打籽繡。</text>
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                <text>侗族 The Dong</text>
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                <text>现代 Modern</text>
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                <text>贵州黔东南苗族侗族自治州黎平县 Guizhou Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture Liping County </text>
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&#13;
(ENG) Tujia purse: eye catching red base cloth which connotes auspiciousness. Flat stitch is used. The flower at the centre of the patterns is made of red threads, and blossom patterns are embroidered on the four sides with blue threads. The borders and leaves are stitched with threads of the same colour to make the blossom patterns more prominent and three dimensional, thereby adding an extra layer of texture and artistic beauty. The embroidery style is similar to that of the Han and reflects the long standing cultural and social integration of Tujia and Han clans. &#13;
&#13;
（繁）大洋袋採用了紅色的底布，奪目鮮明之餘，亦有吉祥幸福之寓意。此大洋袋運用了平繡。在刺繡圖案方面，中心的花朵以紅色調繡線製作，再用藍色調的繡線在四周繡上繁花紋。以同色調的繡線繪製邊線和葉子，令繁花紋更突出立體，再添層次感和美感。由於土家族長期受漢族文化的影響，刺繡風格偏漢族文化。這反映了土家族與漢族長期雜居，形成文化相融的社會形態。</text>
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                <text>贵州省铜仁市松桃县 Guizhou Tongren Songtao County</text>
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                <text>（简）口水兜除蓝色底部外，还使用了3种颜色的贴布制作，第一层为白色，第二层为黑色，第三层为红色，色彩搭配鲜明又不失典雅。此口水兜运用了剪贴绣。此件藏品的图案看似简单，实则非常用心。图案上虽只有蝙蝠和如意这两种图案，但图案的套用让该口水兜十分生动有趣。大如意里套着小如意，蝙蝠里套着小如意，还有各种如意的围绕与交错。甚富巧思的图案设计和精细的造工也表达了苗族妈妈对孩子的深厚母爱和美好祝福。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Miao bib: blue base fabric with a first layer of white fabric, a second layer of black fabric and a third layer of red fabric. The colour combination is sharp and elegant. Appliqué is used. The patterns on the bib may seem simple, but it is thoughtfully made. Although there are only bats and Ruyi patterns, the application of the pattern makes the bib look lively and interesting, with the small Ruyi placed within the large Ruyi as well as within the bat. All kinds of Ruyi interweave and surround one another. These exquisitely crafted and intricate pattern designs are a manifestation of the deep maternal love Miao mothers have for their children. &#13;
&#13;
（繁）口水兜除藍色底部外，還使用了3種顏色的貼佈製作，第一層為白色，第二層為黑色，第三層為紅色，色彩搭配鮮明又不失典雅。此口水兜運用了剪貼繡。此件藏品的圖案看似簡單，實則非常用心。圖案上雖只有蝙蝠和如意這兩種圖案，但圖案的套用讓該口水兜十分生動有趣。大如意裡套著小如意，蝙蝠裡套著小如意，還有各種如意的圍繞與交錯。甚富巧思的圖案設計和精細的造工也表達了苗族媽媽對孩子的深厚母愛和美好祝福。</text>
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                <text>黎平县水口镇 Liping County Shuikou Town</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------crossing-stitch"&gt;挑花 Crossing stitch&lt;/a&gt;，&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------applique"&gt;剪贴绣 Applique&lt;/a&gt;，八角星 Octagram pattern</text>
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                <text>（简）服饰上衣的底布和刺绣都主要采用了蓝色调，上衣的衣袖和前胸部分都有八角星图案，整体较为沉实朴素。此服饰上衣运用了挑花和剪贴绣 。这件藏品这也是贯首服的一种，是为有领贯首衣。贯首服常见于苗族、壮族和布依族，由于面料珍贵和布幅宽度的限制，制作者便将衣服裁剪为几何形，尽量减少因裁剪而造成的布料浪费，是民间妇女「物尽其用」的智慧体现。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) The Bouyei Costume Top; The base fabric and embroideries are mainly in blue, which is relatively simple and plain. Crossing stitch and applique are used. It is a type of collared-robe. Robes are commonly found in the Miao, Zhuang and Buyi. Due to the rarity and the limitation in width of the fabrics, the makers cut the clothes into geometric shapes to minimize the waste of fabrics caused by cutting. It is a manifestation of wisdom of the folk women who “make best use of everything”. In terms of embroidery patterns, this costume is different from the octagram patterns found on previous clothings. &#13;
&#13;
（繁）服飾上衣的底布和刺繡都主要採用了藍色調，上衣的衣袖和前胸部分都有八角星圖案，整體較為沈實樸素。此服飾上衣運用了挑花和剪貼繡 。這件藏品這也是貫首服的一種，是為有領貫首衣。貫首服常見於苗族、壯族和布依族，由於面料珍貴和布幅寬度的限制，製作者便將衣服裁剪為幾何形，盡量減少因裁剪而造成的布料浪費，是民間婦女「物盡其用」的智慧體現。&#13;
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------counted-thread-stitc"&gt;数纱绣 Counted thread stitch&lt;/a&gt;，几何纹 Geometric pattern</text>
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                <text>（简）盛装衣袖子、肩部和領口的刺繡以红色调为主，如大红，桃红，艳红，在黑色底布的襯托下更為鲜明夺目。此盛装衣運用了数纱绣 ，黄平数纱绣图案多以几何纹為主，构图精细，對稱工整。該藏品除了使用紅色繡線，还使用了白色和黄色，使整件服饰图案更為清晰，色彩更明亮。此外，部分年长的苗族婦女也会使用蓝色或紫色丝线制作盛装衣。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Miao festive coat: black base fabric with vivid and eye catching embroideries on the sleeves, shoulders and neckline in red tones such as scarlet, peach and ruby red. Counted thread stitch is used. Most of the Huangping counted thread stitch patterns are geometric patterns, with intricate and symmetrical composition. In addition to the use of red embroidery thread, white and yellow threads are also used to make the whole coat pattern clearer and to add colour and brightness. &#13;
&#13;
（繁）盛裝衣袖子、肩部和領口的刺繡以紅色調為主，如大紅，桃紅，艷紅，在黑色底布的襯托下更為鮮明奪目。此盛裝衣運用了數紗繡 ，黃平數紗繡圖案多以幾何紋為主，構圖精細，對稱工整。該藏品除了使用紅色繡線，還使用了白色和黃色，使整件服飾圖案更為清晰，色彩更明亮。此外，部分年長的苗族婦女也會使用藍色或紫色絲線製作盛裝衣。</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>贵州黔东南苗族侗族自治州黄平县 Guizhou Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture Huangping County </text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------stack-stitch"&gt;叠绣 Stack stitch&lt;/a&gt;，放射状八角星 Octagram pattern</text>
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                <text>（简）苗衣的刺绣集中在领口、肩部和衣袖，整体的蓝绿色调十分的雅致。此苗衣运用了叠绣。这件服饰是叠绣工艺的完美体现，叠绣满布，不仅每个用三角形重叠出来的图案非常工整、精细，就连组成图案的每个小三角都十分均匀一致。刺绣图案为排列的方形，每个方形里面都绣有一个放射状八角星，刺绣得十分紧实，可见制作者的认真态度和高超技艺。 &#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Miao coat: embroidery concentrated around the collar and shoulder area as well as the sleeves. The overall bluish-green colour tone signifies elegance. Stack stitch is used. This piece is a perfect realization of the craftsmanship of stack stitch. The coat is fully decorated with stack stitch. Not only the patterns formed from overlapping triangles neat and intricate, the small triangles that form the patterns are themselves even and identical. The embroidery pattern is arranged in squares, with each square embroidered with an octagram pattern. Neat and compact, the embroidery shows the profound attitude and superb skills of its creator.  &#13;
&#13;
（繁）苗衣的刺繡集中在領口、肩部和衣袖，整體的藍綠色調十分的雅緻。此苗衣運用了疊繡。這件服飾是疊繡工藝的完美體現，疊繡滿佈，不僅每個用三角形重疊出來的圖案非常工整、精細，就連組成圖案的每個小三角都十分均勻一致。刺繡圖案為排列的方形，每個方形裡面都繡有一個放射狀八角星，刺繡得十分緊實，可見製作者的認真態度和高超技藝。</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>凯里市凯棠镇 Kaili Kaitang Town</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------stack-stitch"&gt;叠绣 Stack stitch&lt;/a&gt;，放射状八角星 Octagram pattern</text>
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                <text>（简）芦笙衣整体为深青色，佐以袖子上的橙色拼布，端庄稳重。此芦笙衣运用了叠绣。叠绣，又称堆绣，是将上过浆的轻薄丝绫面料裁剪折叠成细三角形，堆叠于底布之上，边堆边用针线固定，组合成矩形的饰片。芦笙衣由马甲和飘带组合而成，飘带下方一般会坠有动物的羽毛，一般为鸟毛，也有鸡毛或鹅毛。在侗族男人吹奏芦笙时，飘带会随着舞动的节奏，有韵律摇曳飘动。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Dong Lusheng coat: dark cyan with orange patchwork on the sleeves. It is a modest and elegant piece. Stack stitch is used. Stack stitch, also known as pile stitch, is made by cutting and folding pieces of glued thin silk fabric onto small triangular shapes. These small pieces are then stacked on top of the base cloth, the sides sewn with needle and thread, and then combined into a rectangular ornament. The lusheng coat is made from a combination of vest and streamer. Under the streamer, bird feathers (for instance, chicken or goose feathers) are often attached. When Dong men play the lusheng, the streamers will sway in time with the rhythm and beat of the dance.  &#13;
&#13;
（繁）蘆笙衣整體為深青色，佐以袖子上的橙色拼布，端莊穩重。此蘆笙衣運用了疊繡。疊繡，又稱堆繡，是將上過漿的輕薄絲綾面料裁剪折疊成細三角形，堆疊於底布之上，邊堆邊用針線固定，組合成矩形的飾片。蘆笙衣由馬甲和飄帶組合而成，飄帶下方一般會墜有動物的羽毛，一般為鳥毛，也有雞毛或鵝毛。在侗族男人吹奏蘆笙時，飄帶會隨著舞動的節奏，有韻律搖曳飄動。</text>
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                <text>贵州黔东南苗族侗族自治州黎平县 Guizhou Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture Liping County </text>
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                  <text>3. 刺绣 Embroidery</text>
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                <text>侗族芦笙衣 The Dong Lusheng Costume</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------applique"&gt;剪贴绣 Applique&lt;/a&gt;，&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------satin-stitch"&gt;刺花 Satin stitch&lt;/a&gt;，方圆几何纹组合 Combination of geometric patterns</text>
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                <text>（简）芦笙衣用青色布料制作，底色深沉而庄重。此芦笙衣运用了剪贴绣和刺花。剪贴绣是将布料裁剪出所需的图案花纹，或剪好的布料，拼绣出各种大小均匀的花纹和几何纹，再将其锁边固定或绣订到底布上。芦笙衣由马甲和飘带组合而成，飘带下方一般会坠有动物的羽毛，一般为鸟毛，也有鸡毛或鹅毛。在侗族男人吹奏芦笙时，飘带会随着舞动的节奏有韵律地飘动。无论是刺绣或织锦，马甲和飘带上的色调及图案都讲究一致性，这件芦笙衣运用了红、白、黑三色。该藏品图案工整，做工精细，保存完整，具有极高的欣赏性和代表性。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Dong lusheng costume: dark and solemn cyan fabric with appliqué and crossing stitch. Appliqué technique involves cutting out fabric for patterns, stitching the cut fabric together to form different patterns such as geometric patterns of equal size, and then stitching and fixing the fabric onto the base cloth. Lusheng costume is a combination of waistcoat and streamer. There are usually bird feathers (for instance, chicken or goose feathers) at the bottom of the streamers. When Dong men play the lusheng, the streamers move with the same rhythm of the dance. Regardless whether it is embroidery or brocade, emphasis is placed on the consistency of colour and pattern of the vest and streamers. This piece uses red, white and black and is highly representative of the neat and fine workmanship of the Dong.&#13;
&#13;
（繁）蘆笙衣用青色布料製作，底色深沉而莊重。此蘆笙衣運用了剪貼繡和刺花。剪貼繡是將布料裁剪出所需的圖案花紋，或剪好的布料，拼繡出各種大小均勻的花紋和幾何紋，再將其鎖邊固定或繡訂到底布上。蘆笙衣由馬甲和飄帶組合而成，飄帶下方一般會墜有動物的羽毛，一般為鳥毛，也有雞毛或鵝毛。在侗族男人吹奏蘆笙時，飄帶會隨著舞動的節奏有韻律地飄動。無論是刺繡或織錦，馬甲和飄帶上的色調及圖案都講究一致性，這件蘆笙衣運用了紅、白、黑三色。該藏品圖案工整，做工精細，保存完整，具有極高的欣賞性和代表性。</text>
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                <text>侗族 The Dong</text>
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                <text>晚清 Late Qing Dynasty</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>侗族芦笙衣 The Dong Lusheng Costume (#451)</text>
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                <text>#449</text>
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                <text>贵州黔东南苗族侗族自治州黎平县加鸠乡 Guizhou Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture Liping County Jiagou Village</text>
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