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                  <text>3. 刺绣 Embroidery</text>
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                <text>苗族背带 The Miao Baby Carrying Belt</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------applique"&gt;剪贴绣 Applique&lt;/a&gt;</text>
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                <text>（简）背带的背面绣有大片刺绣，在领子、袖口和下摆也饰有刺绣，颜色颇为丰富。此苗衣运用了剪贴绣 。苗衣背后的刺绣用色大胆，采用了宝蓝色、草绿色、浅紫色的丝线制作，更绣有反光饰片，精巧夺目。其余部分的刺绣也用了多种颜色，有黑色、酒红色、浅蓝色等，在黑色布料上添上色彩。 &#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Miao baby carrying belt: black fabric with a large embroidered area on the back. The collar, cuffs and hem are decorated with embroideries in multiple colours. Applique is the main technique used to create this costume. The large embroidered area on the back uses boldly coloured embroidery thread, including royal blue, lawn green and lilac. The addition of sequins makes it exquisitely eye catching. Other embroidery on the costume uses black, burgundy red and light blue. &#13;
&#13;
（繁）背帶的背面繡有大片刺繡，在領子、袖口和下擺也飾有刺繡，顏色頗為豐富。此苗衣運用了剪貼繡 。苗衣背後的刺繡用色大膽，採用了寶藍色、草綠色、淺紫色的絲線製作，更繡有反光飾片，精巧奪目。其餘部分的刺繡也用了多種顏色，有黑色、酒紅色、淺藍色等，在黑色布料上添上色彩。 </text>
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                <text>苗族 The Miao</text>
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                <text>上世纪50年代 Last century 50s</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/items/show/35"&gt;苗族背带 The Miao Baby Carrying Belt (#809)&lt;/a&gt;</text>
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                <text>贵州黔东南苗族侗族自治州黎平县 Guizhou Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture Liping County </text>
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                  <text>3. 刺绣 Embroidery</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------knot-stitch"&gt;打籽绣 Knot stitch&lt;/a&gt;，&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------stack-stitch"&gt;叠绣 Stack stitch&lt;/a&gt;，漩涡纹 Spiral pattern，脊宇鸟纹 Divine bird pattern，莲花纹 Water-lily pattern，卷草纹 Curling grass pattern</text>
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                <text>（简）背带采用黑色底布，以红、绿和米色的丝线制作刺绣，红花绿叶的设计令花草纹更为生动。此背带运用了打籽绣和叠绣。刺绣图案以多种纹样设计出鸟语花香的画面，如花纹、鸟纹和卷草纹，刺绣构图紧密，色彩丰富。该件藏品的收藏价值甚高，年代久远，保存完整，做工非常精细，是同时期的代表之作。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Miao baby carrying belt: black base cloth with embroidery of red, green and beige silk threads. The design of ‘red flowers and green leaves’ makes the flower and grass pattern more vivid. Knot stitch and stack stitch are used. Embroideries make use of various patterns, for example flowers, bird and curling grass patterns, to design a scene that vividly evokes bird chirping and the fragrance of flowers. Composition is packed and the colours are diverse. The high collection value of this piece is realised through its long history and pristine state. The craftsmanship is exquisite and one of the most outstanding pieces of work of its period.&#13;
&#13;
（繁）背帶採用黑色底布，以紅、綠和米色的絲線製作刺繡，紅花綠葉的設計令花草紋更為生動。此背帶運用了打籽繡和疊繡。刺繡圖案以多種紋樣設計出鳥語花香的畫面，如花紋、鳥紋和卷草紋，刺繡構圖緊密，色彩豐富。該件藏品的收藏價值甚高，年代久遠，保存完整，做工非常精細，是同時期的代表之作。</text>
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                <text>苗族 The Miao</text>
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                <text>民国 Republic of China</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/items/show/41"&gt;苗族背带 The Miao Baby Carrying Belt (#98)&lt;/a&gt;</text>
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                <text>#99</text>
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                <text>台江县革一镇 Taijiang County Geyi Town</text>
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                  <text>2. 织锦 Weaving</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/-------coloured-brocade"&gt;彩锦 Coloured brocade&lt;/a&gt;，&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------knot-stitch"&gt;打籽绣 Knot stitch&lt;/a&gt;，几何纹 Geometric pattern，鸟纹 Bird pattern，蝴蝶纹 Butterfly pattern，云雷纹</text>
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                <text>（简）背带的底布和刺绣部分都采用了较深沉的色调，如深红色、淡绿色和紫蓝色，朴素简约。此背带运用了彩锦和打籽绣。刺绣图案集中在中间部分，主要是相连的几何纹，构图精细，排列紧密。背带是少数民族背小孩的工具，常用蜡染，织锦，刺绣工艺来制作，是贵州少数民族服饰文化中非常重要的一部分。每件背带的制作都相当耗时耗工，表达着母亲对孩子深深的爱和美好祝愿。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Miao baby carrying belt: the base fabric and embroidery use dark tones such as crimson, light green and bluish-purple, creating a ** effect. Coloured brocade and knot stitch are used. The embroidery patterns are concentrated around the centre, and are mainly connected geometric patterns, with fine composition and compact arrangement. Baby carrying belts are used by ethnic minorities to swaddle their babies and are a crucial part of the Guizhou ethnic minority clothing culture. They are usually produced with artisan techniques such as batik, brocade and embroidery.  Each baby carrying belt is time consuming and laborious to make and is a beautiful display of a mother’s deep love and future hopes for her child.  &#13;
&#13;
（繁）背帶的底布和刺繡部分都採用了較深沉的色調，如深紅色、淡綠色和紫藍色，樸素簡約。此背帶運用了彩錦和打籽繡。刺繡圖案集中在中間部分，主要是相連的幾何紋，構圖精細，排列緊密。背帶是少數民族背小孩的工具，常用蠟染，織錦，刺繡工藝來製作，是貴州少數民族服飾文化中非常重要的一部分。每件背帶的製作都相當耗時耗工，表達著母親對孩子深深的愛和美好祝願。</text>
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                <text>台江县革一镇革一乡 Taijiang County Geyi Town Geyi Village</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------brocade"&gt;素锦 Plain brocade&lt;/a&gt;，菱形图案 Rhombic pattern，八角星 Octagram pattern，曲折纹 Zigzag pattern，几何纹 Geometric pattern</text>
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                <text>（简）背扇为米色和黑色，织纹由主要菱形和曲折纹组成，每个大菱形里面都饰有八角星和十字纹，纹样紧密排列，做工精细。此背扇运用了素锦的制作技艺。苗族织锦是苗族人民生活中不可或缺的物品，是广泛用于制作衣服的物料，除了构图对称精美，图案丰富多变，也反映着苗族的历史和社会形态。  &#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Baby carrying belt: beige and black with embroidered rhombic and zigzag patterns. The inside of each rhombus is decorated with tightly arranged and intricately stitched octagonal and cross patterns. This baby carrying belt also uses plain brocade techniques. Brocade is widely used by Miao for making clothes and is an indispensable part of their daily lives. Brocade has diverse patterns as well as being exquisitely symmetrical in composition. The variety and richness of the patterns reflect the long history and social structures of the Miao people. &#13;
&#13;
（繁）背扇為米色和黑色，織紋由主要菱形和曲折紋組成，每個大菱形裡面都飾有八角星和十字紋，紋樣緊密排列，做工精細。此背扇運用了素錦的製作技藝。苗族織錦是苗族人民生活中不可或缺的物品，是廣泛用於製作衣服的物料，除了構圖對稱精美，圖案豐富多變，也反映著苗族的歷史和社會形態。</text>
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                <text>上世纪50年代 Last century 50s</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>凯里市剑河县南寨乡 Kaili Jianhe County Nanzhai Village</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------stack-stitch"&gt;叠绣 Stack stitch&lt;/a&gt;，放射状八角星 Octagram pattern</text>
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                <text>（简）苗衣的刺绣集中在领口、肩部和衣袖，整体的蓝绿色调十分的雅致。此苗衣运用了叠绣。这件服饰是叠绣工艺的完美体现，叠绣满布，不仅每个用三角形重叠出来的图案非常工整、精细，就连组成图案的每个小三角都十分均匀一致。刺绣图案为排列的方形，每个方形里面都绣有一个放射状八角星，刺绣得十分紧实，可见制作者的认真态度和高超技艺。 &#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Miao coat: embroidery concentrated around the collar and shoulder area as well as the sleeves. The overall bluish-green colour tone signifies elegance. Stack stitch is used. This piece is a perfect realization of the craftsmanship of stack stitch. The coat is fully decorated with stack stitch. Not only the patterns formed from overlapping triangles neat and intricate, the small triangles that form the patterns are themselves even and identical. The embroidery pattern is arranged in squares, with each square embroidered with an octagram pattern. Neat and compact, the embroidery shows the profound attitude and superb skills of its creator.  &#13;
&#13;
（繁）苗衣的刺繡集中在領口、肩部和衣袖，整體的藍綠色調十分的雅緻。此苗衣運用了疊繡。這件服飾是疊繡工藝的完美體現，疊繡滿佈，不僅每個用三角形重疊出來的圖案非常工整、精細，就連組成圖案的每個小三角都十分均勻一致。刺繡圖案為排列的方形，每個方形裡面都繡有一個放射狀八角星，刺繡得十分緊實，可見製作者的認真態度和高超技藝。</text>
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                <text>民国 Republic of China</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>凯里市凯棠镇 Kaili Kaitang Town</text>
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                  <text>3. 刺绣 Embroidery</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------wrinkling-stitch"&gt;皱绣 Wrinkling stitch&lt;/a&gt;，文字图案 Chinese characters pattern</text>
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                <text>（简）衣袖绣片飾有由彩線繡成的文字「幸福」，顏色繽紛，活潑奪目。此衣袖绣片運用了皱绣。绣片是衣袖上的装饰，為服裝畫龍點睛。製作者將四個「幸」字对称地放在中心，再把「福」字壓成三角形，裝飾兩側，甚具創意和想像力。該件藏品的收藏价值甚高，以文字作为刺绣图案非常罕见，不可多得。 &#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Embroidered work: stitched with coloured silk threads and decorated with the Chinese characters '幸福(happiness)'. Wrinkling stitch is used. The complexity of the work is enhanced through the creator’s use of word characters as embroidery patterns. Four '幸', a Chinese character which means good fortune, are symmetrically embroidered at the center together with triangles containing the character '福', which means blessing, on the sides. This design showcases the creativity and distinctive imagination of the creator. Using word characters as embroidery patterns are rare, and this level of craftsmanship displayed is rarely seen.&#13;
&#13;
（繁）衣袖繡片飾有由彩線繡成的文字「幸福」，顏色繽紛，活潑奪目。此衣袖繡片運用了皺繡。繡片是衣袖上的裝飾，為服裝畫龍點睛。製作者將四個「幸」字對稱地放在中心，再把「福」字壓成三角形，裝飾兩側，甚具創意和想像力。該件藏品的收藏價值甚高，以文字作為刺繡圖案非常罕見，不可多得。</text>
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                <text>民国 Republic of China</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>凯里市雷山县西江镇 Kaili Leishan County Xijiang Town</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------metal-gimp-embroider"&gt;锡绣 Metal gimp stitich&lt;/a&gt;，几何纹 Geomatry pattern</text>
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                <text>（简）此物件为贵州剑河地区苗族妇女后背上的装饰片，刺绣集中在中间位置，尾端亦饰有流苏。此装饰片运用了锡绣。锡绣属于一种金属刺绣，制作时分两步。第一步，需要先打底，所谓打底是指用挑花技法，白色丝线先将图案绣于黑布上，这样的绣片我们称之为“老母花”；第二步，将金属锡打成细小薄片，用针线装订于该图案上，每一针装订一片小锡片，而流苏的地方则是用锡片裹于丝线上制成，非常费工，制作这样一件绣片，需要1-2年的时间。剑河地区喜黑白两色制作刺绣和织锦，较为朴素简约，典雅大方。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Decorative Fabric: a decorative piece on the back of a Miao woman in Jianhe area, Guizhou. Embroideries is concentrated at the centre and the hem is decorated with tassels. Metal gimp stitch is used. Metal gimp is a kind of metal embroidery, which is made in two steps. First, you need to make a primer that uses crossing stitch to embroider the pattern on the black cloth with white silk thread. This embroidery piece is called “Lao Mu Hua”; the second step is to cut the metal tin into thin slices and stitch them on the pattern. Each tin piece is sewed stitch by stitch, and the tassels are made by wrapping the tin pieces on the silk thread. This is very labour intensive as it takes 1-2 years to produce one piece of embroidery work. The Jianhe area likes to make embroidery and brocade in black and white for a simplistic and elegant style.&#13;
&#13;
（繁）此物件為貴州劍河地區苗族婦女後背上的裝飾片，刺繡集中在中間位置，尾端亦飾有流蘇。此裝飾片運用了錫繡。錫繡屬於一種金屬刺繡，製作時分兩步。第一步，需要先打底，所謂打底是指用挑花技法，白色絲線先將圖案繡於黑布上，這樣的繡片我們稱之為“老母花”；第二步，將金屬錫打成細小薄片，用針線裝訂於該圖案上，每一針裝訂一片小錫片，而流甦的地方則是用錫片裹於絲線上製成，非常費工，製作這樣一件繡片，需要1 -2年的時間。劍河地區喜黑白兩色製作刺繡和織錦，較為樸素簡約，典雅大方。</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>凯里市剑河县南寨乡 Kaili Jianhe County Nanzhai Village</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------flat-stitch"&gt;平绣 Flat stitch&lt;/a&gt;，蝴蝶纹 Butterfly pattern，苗龙纹 The Miao dragon pattern，脊宇鸟纹 Divine bird pattern，鱼纹 Fish pattern，虫纹 Insect pattern</text>
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                <text>（简）牯藏服通体满绣，刺绣图案大而满，刺绣丝线的色彩对比强烈，鲜艳亮丽。此牯藏服运用了平绣。牯藏服因苗族的「牯藏节」而得名，也有称作「大牛衣」或「百鸟服」。飘带裙下摆坠以无数鸟毛，穿上后犹如美丽的鸟儿穿梭与林间，据说在古代狩猎时有很好的隐蔽功能。牯藏服有男装女装之分，上衣和飘带链为一体为女装，上衣和飘带分开则为男装。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Dress for the Guzang Festival: brightly colourly dress, fully embroidered with large and dense patterns using silk threads of contrasting colours. Also known as the ‘big ox coat’ or ‘hundred bird clothing’, this piece is named after the famous Miao people’s Guzang Festival. The hem of the streamer skirt is decorated with countless bird feathers, giving its wearer the appearance of an elegant bird criss-crossing a lush jungle. It is said that in former times, this dress provided good camouflage when hunting. This dress has both male and female versions, with the male version separating its top and the streamers at the bottom, while the female version combines the two into one piece.&#13;
&#13;
（繁）牯藏服通體滿繡，刺繡圖案大而滿，刺繡絲線的色彩對比強烈，鮮豔亮麗。此牯藏服運用了平繡。牯藏服因苗族的「牯藏節」而得名，也有稱作「大牛衣」或「百鳥服」。飄帶裙下擺墜以無數鳥毛，穿上後猶如美麗的鳥兒穿梭與林間，據說在古代狩獵時有很好的隱蔽功能。牯藏服有男裝女裝之分，上衣和飄帶鍊為一體為女裝，上衣和飄帶分開則為男裝。</text>
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                <text>榕江县月亮山摆贝村 Rongjiang County Moon Hill Baibei Village</text>
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                  <text>1. 蜡染 Dyeing</text>
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                <text>（简）百褶裙的裙边蓝白相间，曲线直线交错，简洁清雅而又不失心思。制作百褶裙的蜡染底布一般长3-5米，此裙边运用了蜡染的制作技巧。蜡染即蜡画和染色，是延续千年的民间传统工艺。用蜡液在自织的白布上精心绘上图案，然后在蓝靛缸里浸染几次后捞出，放在锅里用开水煮去蜡质，再用水清洗浮色，即呈现出各种白色图案。 苗族的蜡染技艺精湛，手工细腻，清秀脱俗。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Batik pleated skirt with furbelow: a neat and elegant piece decorated with horizontally-arranged patterned strips of both curved and straight lines. The batik base cloth for making pleated skirts is usually 3 to 5 metres long. Batik is a traditional craft with a history of over one thousand years. It is a technique that involves beeswax and dyeing. Miao women use melted beeswax to draw patterns on self woven white cloth. The cloth is then soaked into a barrel of indigo dye several times before it is taken out, then boiled in a pot to remove the wax and rinsed in water to remove the excess dye. Different white patterns are revealed when the wax is rinsed off.&#13;
&#13;
（繁）百褶裙的裙邊藍白相間，曲線直線交錯，簡潔清雅而又不失心思。製作百褶裙的蠟染底布一般長3-5米，此裙邊運用了蠟染的製作技巧。蠟染即蠟畫和染色，是延續千年的民間傳統工藝。用蠟液在自織的白布上精心繪上圖案，然後在藍靛缸里浸染幾次後撈出，放在鍋裡用開水煮去蠟質，再用水清洗浮色，即呈現出各種白色圖案。 苗族的蠟染技藝精湛，手工細膩，清秀脫俗。&#13;
&#13;
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                <text>民国 Republic of China</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>贵州省毕节 Guizhou Huajie</text>
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                <text>（简）蜡染花片朴素简约，以交叠的圆形为主轴，在部分重叠处绘上似鱼的外观，造型别致。此花片运用了蜡染的制作技巧，並使用回收蜡制作。回收蜡即反复使用的蜡，因被植物染色故呈现深蓝色。蜡染即蜡画和染色，是延续千年的民间传统工艺。苗族的蜡染技艺高超，融入几何艺术之元素。风格独特。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Batik fabric: a unique and distinctive piece, with overlapping circles and some areas decorated with fish-like illustrations. The fabric is produced with recycled wax. Recycled wax is wax that has been repeatedly used and is dark blue due to plant dye. Batik is a traditional craft with a history of over one thousand years. It is a technique that involves beeswax and dyeing. Miao women use melted beeswax to draw patterns on self woven white cloth. The cloth is then soaked into a barrel of indigo dye several times before it is taken out, then boiled in a pot to remove the wax and rinsed in water to remove the excess dye. Different white patterns are revealed when the wax is rinsed off.&#13;
&#13;
（繁）蠟染花片樸素簡約，以交疊的圓形為主軸，在部分重疊處繪上似魚的外觀，造型別緻。此花片運用了蠟染的製作技巧，並使用回收蠟製作。回收蠟即反複使用的蠟，因被植物染色故呈現深藍色。蠟染即蠟畫和染色，是延續千年的民間傳統工藝。苗族的蠟染技藝高超，融入幾何藝術之元素。風格獨特。</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>贵州黔东南苗族侗族自治州丹寨县 Guizhou Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture Danzhai County</text>
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