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                  <text>1. 蜡染 Dyeing</text>
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                <text>黔西蜡染袖片 Qianxi Batik Sleeves</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------coloured-batik"&gt;彩染 Coloured batik&lt;/a&gt;</text>
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                <text>（简）袖片的彩染集中在中部，呈暗红色，袖口颜色则另外缤纷，以红，蓝，黄相间。此袖片运用了彩染的制作技巧，衣袖部分是蜡染装饰片。彩染，顾名思义彩色蜡染，制作时使用了除靛蓝外的其他植物染料多次密封蜡染色而成。苗族的蜡染技巧高超，变化多样，用色大胆鲜明。 &#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Batik sleeves; with coloured batik concentrated at the centre in maroon. The cuffs are decorated in alternating red, blue and yellow. Coloured batik, as its name suggests, is the production of batik in colours. It is made by the repetitive sealing of melted wax and the use of plant-based dyes other than indigo. The Miao are extremely skillful at creating diverse and boldly coloured batik. &#13;
&#13;
（繁）袖片的彩染集中在中部，呈暗紅色，袖口顏色則另外繽紛，以紅，藍，黃相間。此袖片運用了彩染的製作技巧，衣袖部分是蠟染裝飾片。彩染，顧名思義彩色蠟染，製作時使用了除靛藍外的其他植物染料多次密封蠟染色而成。苗族的蠟染技巧高超，變化多樣，用色大膽鮮明。 </text>
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                <text>上世纪50年代 Last century 50s</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>贵州省毕节市黔西县 Guizhou Huajie Qianxi County</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------coloured-batik"&gt;彩染 Colored Batik&lt;/a&gt;</text>
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                <text>（简）袖片的蜡染部分为深蓝色和淡红色，袖口颜色则不同缤纷夺目，用了红，黄，绿等色。此袖片运用了彩染的制作技巧，衣袖部分是蜡染装饰片。彩染，顾名思义彩色蜡染，制作时使用了除蓝外的其他植物染料多次封蜡染色。蜡染图纹十分紧密，制作耗时，手工精细。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Qianxi batik sleeves: dark blue and pale red batik. The cuffs are vibrantly coloured in red, green, yellow and other colours. Coloured batik technique is used. Coloured batik, as the name suggests, is different from regular batik as it uses various botanical colourings other than indigo blue. The tightly arranged batik patterns are time consuming to make and display exquisite craftsmanship. &#13;
&#13;
（繁）袖片的蠟染部分為深藍色和淡紅色，袖口顏色則不同繽紛奪目，用了紅，黃，綠等色。此袖片運用了彩染的製作技巧，衣袖部分是蠟染裝飾片。彩染，顧名思義彩色蠟染，製作時使用了除藍外的其他植物染料多次封蠟染色。蠟染圖紋十分緊密，製作耗時，手工精細。</text>
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                <text>苗族 The Miao</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>#1589</text>
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                <text>贵州省毕节市黔西县 Guizhou Huajie Qianxi County</text>
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                  <text>3. 刺绣 Embroidery</text>
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                <text>黄平苗族背带 Huangping The Miao Baby Carrying Belt</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------counted-thread-stitc"&gt;数纱绣 Counted thread stitch&lt;/a&gt;，各种几何蝴蝶纹 Different geomatric butterfly patterns，脊宇鸟纹 Divine bird pattern</text>
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                <text>（简）背带的刺绣呈几何形状，以蝴蝶纹为中心，脊宇鸟纹对称分布在左右侧。此背带运用了数纱绣。刺绣的技艺十分精巧别致，图案灵动可爱，突显苗族人民对大自然的热爱和对生命的崇敬。背带是少数民族妇女背小孩时使用的用具，苗族会将背带制作得很精美，这是母爱最直接的表现。 &#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Baby carrying belt: decorated with geometrical patterns with butterfly pattern at the centre and divine bird patterns symmetrically distributed on the left and right flanks. Counted thread stitch is used. Embroidery techniques used on this belt are intricate, the patterns are lively and reflect the Miao’s love of nature and their respectful attitude to life. Miao women make these exquisite carrying belts as a direct demonstration of motherly love.&#13;
&#13;
（繁）背帶的刺繡呈幾何形狀，以蝴蝶紋為中心，脊宇鳥紋對稱分佈在左右側。此背帶運用了數紗繡。刺繡的技藝十分精巧別緻，圖案靈動可愛，突顯苗族人民對大自然的熱愛和對生命的崇敬。背帶是少數民族婦女背小孩時使用的用具，苗族會將背帶製作得很精美，這是母愛最直接的表現。 </text>
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                <text>民国 Republic of China</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/items/show/11"&gt;黄平苗族背带 Huangping The Miao Baby Carrying Belt (496#)&lt;/a&gt;</text>
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                <text>黔东南苗族侗族自治州黄平县 Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture Huangping  County</text>
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&#13;
(ENG) Baby carrying belt:  abundant red embroidery, stitched with identical geometric patterns. The geometric patterns are intricate and arranged in an orderly and elegant manner, conveying a sense of continuity. Counted thread stitch is used. Embroidery made with Huangpingshu counted thread stitch is often composed of geometric patterns with symmetrical composition and exquisite workmanship. The Miao like to use red thread for embroidery as the colour symbolises joy and vigour. Bright colours emphasize the expressiveness of Miao embroidery. Baby carrying belts are used by ethnic minorities to swaddle their babies. Miao women make these exquisite carrying belts as a direct demonstration of motherly love.&#13;
&#13;
（繁）背帶通體滿佈紅色刺繡，連綿不斷，小巧的紋樣排列十分有條理，雅緻井然。此背帶運用了數紗繡。黃平數紗繡圖案多以幾何紋為主，構圖對稱，做工精緻。苗族喜用紅色絲線刺繡，有喜氣、活力之寓意，鮮豔的色彩更凸顯了苗族刺繡的表現力。背帶是少數民族婦女背小孩時使用的用具，苗族會將背帶製作得很精美，這是母愛最直接的表現。</text>
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&#13;
(ENG) Gedong Miao costume: comprises three parts: (i) top coat, (ii) bellyband and (iii) pleated skirt. Black, white and red are commonly used in Gedong Miao costumes. Black often forms the base colour of the costume, with brocades and embroideries in red and white. Coloured brocade, counted thread stitch and crossing stitch are used. It is decorated with ancient geometric ornamentations, including octagram patterns (the octagonal star is an ancient astrological map first discovered at the Gaimiao cultural site with pottery slabs displaying the octagonal star pattern dating back 7,800 years), Gammadia (an ancient fulu often considered as symbols of sun and fire), juxtaposed human figures, circular letter patterns and zigzag patterns. These patterns are evenly distributed within larger rhombus shaped patterns that embellish the back, chest and waist areas of the costume. These neat and orderly decorations add glimmer and shimmer to the costume, echoing the ways in which stars dot and embellish our night sky.  The decorations complement the solemn and elegant nature of the costume. The ancient patterns on this costume are testimony to the rich history of the Gedongs, who are a branch of the Miao ethnic group. &#13;
&#13;
（繁）整套服飾分為上衣，圍腰，百褶裙。該地區苗族服飾喜用黑、白、紅三色，服飾通體黑色為主，織錦及刺繡部分大體採用紅色及白色點綴。此服飾運用了彩錦、數紗繡和挑花。服飾的主要圖案為八角星圖案、萬字紋、並列的小人、迴紋、曲折紋等古老的幾何紋飾。這些圖案又都均勻地分佈在大的菱形幾何紋中，在衣服的後背、前胸、圍腰上進行裝飾點綴，工整而有序。整套服飾莊重、典雅，圖案如天上繁星點綴般靈動。服飾上古老的圖案彷彿印證著革東—這一苗族分支久遠的歷史。</text>
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&#13;
(ENG) Geyi Miao coat: dark brown with embroideries concentrated at the collar, shoulder and sleeves. The embroideries use beige, orange, pink, green and fuchsia silk threads. The overall design is graceful, humble and aesthetically pleasing. Knot stitch is used. Knot stitch is a technique of knotting threads to present patterns in a three-dimensional manner. Firstly, silk threads are used to outline the pattern. Then, knot stitch techniques are used to fill in the pattern. When stitching, the needle should be pierced from the back of the fabric to the front.  The tip of the needle should be looped twice at the end of the silk thread to make small granular circles, which are then used to form knots. This process is repeated until the many small knots densely fill the entire pattern.&#13;
&#13;
（繁）苗衣的整體為深棕色，色調暗沉，刺繡則採用了米色、橙色、粉綠色和紫紅色的絲線製作，集中在領子、肩部和袖子，古樸典雅，低調而不失美感。此苗衣運用了打籽繡。打籽繡是一種將繩打結以呈現圖案立體感的手法，先用絲線先將圖案勾繡出輪廓，再用打籽繡技法填充輪廓內部。繡針從背面向正面刺上來後，將針尖在絲線底腳卷上兩轉，繞成顆粒狀小圈，形成一粒籽，周而復始，直到這樣的小籽密密麻麻佈滿整個圖案內部，故而得名打籽繡。 </text>
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                <text>（简）苗衣主要呈暗紅色，領口和袖口位置以刺绣裝飾。刺绣颜色通体采用暗绿色制作，穩重沉實，为较为年长妇女所穿戴。此苗衣運用了打籽绣和叠绣。打籽绣是一種將繩打結以呈現圖案立體感的手法。叠绣，又稱堆绣，是将上过浆的轻薄丝绫面料裁剪折叠成细三角形，堆叠于底布之上，边堆边用针线固定，组合成矩形的饰片。 &#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Miao coat: predominantly dark red with collars and cuffs decorated in dark green embroideries. Due to its modest and mature styling, it is worn by older women. Knot stitch and stack stitch are used.  Knot stitch is a technique of knotting threads to present patterns in a three-dimensional manner. Firstly, silk threads are used to outline the pattern. Then, knot stitch techniques are used to fill in the pattern. When stitching, the needle should be pierced from the back of the fabric to the front.  The tip of the needle should be looped twice at the end of the silk thread to make small granular circles, which are then used to form knots. This process is repeated until the many small knots densely fill the entire pattern. Stack stitch, also referred to as piling stitch, uses light silk fabric that has been soaked in honey locust liquid and then cut and folded   into small triangular shapes. These small pieces are then stacked on top of the base cloth, the sides sewn with needle and thread to form embroidery lines and rectangular decorations.&#13;
&#13;
（繁）苗衣主要呈暗紅色，領口和袖口位置以刺繡裝飾。刺繡顏色通體採用暗綠色製作，穩重沉實，為較為年長婦女所穿戴。此苗衣運用了打籽繡和疊繡。打籽繡是一種將繩打結以呈現圖案立體感的手法。疊繡，又稱堆繡，是將上過漿的輕薄絲綾面料裁剪折疊成細三角形，堆疊於底布之上，邊堆邊用針線固定，組合成矩形的飾片。 </text>
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                <text>（简）背扇采用了红、绿和米色的丝线制作刺绣，红花绿叶的设计令花草纹活灵活现。此背扇运用了打籽绣和叠绣。打籽绣是一种将绳打结以呈现图案立体感的手法，先用丝线先将图案勾绣出轮廓，再用针尖在丝线底脚卷上两转，绕成颗粒状小圈，形成一粒籽，周而复始，直到这样的小籽密密麻麻布满整个图案内部。衡量一件好的打籽绣衣不仅要图案秀美，而且要求所打的每一颗籽要细小、圆润、饱满、紧实。叠绣，又称堆绣，是将上过浆的轻薄丝绫面料裁剪折叠成细三角形，堆叠于底布之上，边堆边用针线固定，组合成矩形的饰片。背扇通体布满绣纹，连边缘也饰有刺绣，可见制作者的认真态度和高超技艺。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Miao baby carry belt: embroidered with red, green and beige silk threads. The high contrast of red flowers with green leaves makes the flower patterns come alive. Knot stitch and stack stitch are used. Knot stitch is a method of knotting thread to create a three dimensional pattern. Firstly, the pattern is outlined with silk threads, then the needle is twice coiled around the bottom of the silk thread to form a small granular knot. This process is repeated until the pattern is filled with densely packed small knots. To judge a good knot stitch garment, not only the beautiful patterns are essential, it also requires every knot to be small, round, full, and firm. Stack stitch is created by cutting and folding lightly glued silk fabric into thin triangles, stacking them onto the base fabric and then fixing the stacks of fabric with needle and thread to form a rectangular patch. The entire baby carrying belt is covered with embroidered patterns and showcases the artistry and exquisite craftsmanship of its creator.  &#13;
&#13;
（繁）背扇採用了紅、綠和米色的絲線製作刺繡，紅花綠葉的設計令花草紋活靈活現。此背扇運用了打籽繡和疊繡。打籽繡是一種將繩打結以呈現圖案立體感的手法，先用絲線先將圖案勾繡出輪廓，再用針尖在絲線底腳卷上兩轉，繞成顆粒狀小圈，形成一粒籽，周而復始，直到這樣的小籽密密麻麻佈滿整個圖案內部。衡量一件好的打籽繡衣不僅要圖案秀美，而且要求所打的每一顆籽要細小、圓潤、飽滿、緊實。疊繡，又稱堆繡，是將上過漿的輕薄絲綾面料裁剪折疊成細三角形，堆疊於底布之上，邊堆邊用針線固定，組合成矩形的飾片。背扇通體佈滿繡紋，連邊緣也飾有刺繡，可見製作者的認真態度和高超技藝。&#13;
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                <text>革一绣苗衣 Geyi Embroidered Miao Coat</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------knot-stitch"&gt;打籽绣 Knot stitch&lt;/a&gt;，&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------stack-stitch"&gt;叠绣 Stack stitch&lt;/a&gt;，抽象的蝴蝶纹 Abstract butterfly pattern，脊宇鸟纹 Divine bird pattern，漩涡纹 Spiral pattern，卷草纹 Curling grass pattern，牡丹花 Peony pattern</text>
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                <text>（简）绣苗衣整体为深红色，佐以领子、肩部、袖子和下摆位置的刺绣。下摆亦有延长的黑色布料，上面有亮粉色、蓝色和橘色的装饰，色彩颇为丰富。此绣苗衣运用了打籽绣和叠绣。打籽绣是一种将绳打结以呈现图案立体感的手法，该藏品打的籽极其细小、圆润，在同期服饰中具有极高的工艺水平。叠绣，又称堆绣，是将上过浆的轻薄丝绫面料裁剪折叠成细三角形，堆叠于底布之上，边堆边用针线固定，组合成矩形的饰片。该件藏品的收藏价值甚高，除了极高的工艺价值，年代久远亦令藏品具极高的历史收藏价值。 &#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Geyi embroidered Miao coat: maroon colour with embroidered collar, shoulders, sleeves and hem.  Extended black fabric at the hem is colourfully decorated with bright pink, blue and orange ornaments. Knot stitch and stack stitch are used. Knot stitch is a technique of knotting thread to create three dimensional patterns. The knots on this coat are extremely small and round, displaying masterful craftsmanship. Stack stitch, also known as pile stitch, is a technique that involves cutting and folding the glued light silk fabric into thin triangles. These triangles are stacked onto the base fabric, then sewn with needle and thread to form rectangular patches. The exquisite craftsmanship of this coat makes it a highly valued part of the collection. &#13;
&#13;
（繁）繡苗衣整體為深紅色，佐以領子、肩部、袖子和下擺位置的刺繡。下擺亦有延長的黑色布料，上面有亮粉色、藍色和橘色的裝飾，色彩頗為豐富。此繡苗衣運用了打籽繡和疊繡。打籽繡是一種將繩打結以呈現圖案立體感的手法，該藏品打的籽極其細小、圓潤，在同期服飾中具有極高的工藝水平。疊繡，又稱堆繡，是將上過漿的輕薄絲綾面料裁剪折疊成細三角形，堆疊於底布之上，邊堆邊用針線固定，組合成矩形的飾片。該件藏品的收藏價值甚高，除了極高的工藝價值，年代久遠亦令藏品具極高的歷史收藏價值。 </text>
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                <text>苗族 The Miao</text>
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                <text>晚清 Late Qing Dynasty</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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                <text>贵州黔东南苗族侗族自治州台江县革一镇革一乡 Guizhou Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture Taijiang County Geyi Town Geyi Village</text>
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                  <text>3. 刺绣 Embroidery</text>
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                <text>雷山苗衣 Leishan Miao Coat</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------double-twist-knot-st"&gt;缩宝绣为主 Mainly double-twist knot stitch&lt;/a&gt;，&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------couching-stitch"&gt;绞绣 Couching stitch&lt;/a&gt;，&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------stack-stitch"&gt;叠绣 Stack stitch&lt;/a&gt;，&lt;a href="https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/exhibits/show/embroidery-technique/----------applique"&gt;剪贴绣 Applique&lt;/a&gt;，花草纹 Flower and grass pattern，桃子 Peach，石榴 Pomegranate，蝶纹 Butterfly pattern，盘长纹 Shrivatsa pattern</text>
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                <text>（简）苗衣的刺绣部分为红底绿花，即用红色底布和各种绿色丝线，如深绿、浅绿、嫩绿等，是典型的雷山服饰特点。此苗衣运用了缩宝绣、绞绣、叠绣和剪贴绣。缩宝绣和皱绣一样，绣线皆由特殊技法编制而成，再将编制好的丝线盘成一个一个的小圆宝，组合刺绣成各种花鸟和动物图案，令刺绣图案和底布之间形成凹凸感，产生浅浮雕效果。雷山地区服饰常以龙纹为主要图案，而该藏品的图案则以花果纹为主，有桃子、石榴，还有很多花蝶纹。另外在绞绣部分有很多汉族文化的图案，如中国八吉图案——盘长。这反映出苗族在生活中也吸收了很多汉族文化，虽无文字，但苗族妇女仍能用她们擅长的针线记录之。&#13;
&#13;
(ENG) Leishan Miao coat: embroidery with typical Leishan ‘red base and green flower’, which refers to various shades of green threads, such as dark green, light green and tender green, used on top of a red base cloth.  Double-twist knot stitch, couching stitch, stack stitch and appliqué are used. As with wrinkling stitch, the silk thread used for the double-twist knot stitch has to be first woven using a special technique. Woven silk threads are made into small rounded balls, then combined to form various flower, bird and animal patterns. With this bas-relief effect, the embroidery stands out against the flat garment. Leishan area clothing often uses dragon patterns as the main pattern, yet the pattern of this dress is mainly of flowers and fruits, with peaches, pomegranates and various flower and butterfly patterns. For the couching stitch, many patterns derived from the Han culture can be discerned, including the Chinese Baji pattern-Shrivatsa. Such similar patterns reflect that the Miao people have assimilated considerably with Han culture. Although there is no written text in the Miao dialect, Miao women creatively use their exceptional needlework to record their history.  &#13;
&#13;
（繁）苗衣的刺繡部分為紅底綠花，即用紅色底布和各種綠色絲線，如深綠、淺綠、嫩綠等，是典型的雷山服飾特點。此苗衣運用了縮寶繡、絞繡、疊繡和剪貼繡。縮寶繡和皺繡一樣，繡線皆由特殊技法編制而成，再將編制好的絲線盤成一個一個的小圓寶，組合刺繡成各種花鳥和動物圖案，令刺繡圖案和底布之間形成凹凸感，產生淺浮雕效果。雷山地區服飾常以龍紋為主要圖案，而該藏品的圖案則以花果紋為主，有桃子、石榴，還有很多花蝶紋。另外在絞繡部分有很多漢族文化的圖案，如中國八吉圖案——盤長。這反映出苗族在生活中也吸收了很多漢族文化，雖無文字，但苗族婦女仍能用她們擅長的針線記錄之。&#13;
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                <text>晚清 Late Qing Dynasty</text>
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                <text>贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection</text>
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