施洞绣苗衣 Shidong Embroidered Miao Coat

施洞绣苗衣 Shidong Embroidered Miao Coat

破线绣 Split-thread stitch，叠绣 Stack stitch，数纱绣 Counted thread stitch，双针锁绣 Double-thread chain stitch，朝廷官吏人物图案 Court officials figure pattern，龙纹 Dragon pattern，鱼纹 Fish pattern，彩锦部分是抽象的蝴蝶纹 Abstract butterfly pattern on coloured batik，脊宇鸟纹 Divine bird pattern，万福图案 Wanfu pattern

（简）绣苗衣的领子、肩部和袖子都绣有大幅的红色刺绣，在黑色底布的衬托下为风飒飒。此绣苗衣运用了破线绣、叠绣、数纱绣和双针锁绣。刺绣部分为叙事性图案，以针线描绘了英雄人物形象——「雾帽席」手举令旗和大刀，骑在战马上英勇杀敌的场面。制作者用破线绣技法刺绣出了庞大的战争场面，彩锦及叠绣部分的图案亦极其工整、细腻。该件藏品的收藏价值甚高，是施洞地区刺绣大图案的代表作。大图饱满，内容丰富，把本民族的服饰文化体现的淋漓尽致，是为同时期顶级工艺。

(ENG) Shidong embroidered Miao coat: black base cloth with large red embroideries on the collar and shoulder areas and sleeves, giving a rustic touch to this exquisite piece. Split-thread stitch, stack stitch, counted thread stitch, double thread chain stitch and coloured brocade are used. The patterns depict the story of a hero valiantly fighting against enemies on horseback with broadswords and flags. This coat is made using split thread stitch to embroider the epic war scene and is one of the masterpieces of large pattern embroidery in the Shidong region. The rich detail, extremely neat and delicate coloured brocade and stack stitch beautifully embody the coat culture of the region. A highly collectable piece, this coat showcases the very best craftsmanship of its time.

（繁）繡苗衣的領子、肩部和袖子都繡有大幅的紅色刺繡，在黑色底布的襯托下為風颯颯。此繡苗衣運用了破線繡、疊繡、數紗繡、雙針鎖繡和彩錦。刺繡部分為敘事性圖案，以針線描繪了英雄人物形象——「霧帽席」手舉令旗和大刀，騎在戰馬上英勇殺敵的場面。製作者用破線繡技法刺繡出了龐大的戰爭場面，彩錦及疊繡部分的圖案亦極其工整、細膩。該件藏品的收藏價值甚高，是施洞地區刺繡大圖案的代表作。大圖飽滿，內容豐富，把本民族的服飾文化體現的淋漓盡致，是為同時期頂級工藝。

苗族 The Miao

民国 Republic of China

贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection

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贵州黔东南苗族侗族自治州台江县施洞镇 Guizhou Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture Taijiang County Shidong Town