雷山文字衣 Leishan Chinese Characters Clothing
Dublin Core
Title
雷山文字衣 Leishan Chinese Characters Clothing
Subject
皱绣 Wrinkling stitch，剪贴绣 Applique，数纱绣 Counted thread stitch，轴绣 Stem stitch，叠绣 Stack stitch，花卉纹 Flower pattern，福禄 Phlox，吉祥 Auspicious，鱼纹 Fish pattern，水波纹 Water wave pattern，斜山字纹 Oblique strips pattern
Description
（简）文字衣整体为黑色，在袖子和领子饰有红色刺绣，有吉祥幸福之寓意。此文字衣运用了皱绣、剪贴绣、辫绣镶边、数纱绣、轴绣和叠绣。皱绣先取7-8-9颗丝线编制为一种特殊绣线，这种绣线宽而扁平，形同女孩子的发辫。将辫线折叠并固定，便形成一种立体并厚实的特殊绣线，再用绣线盘出各种图案，让刺绣与底布之间形成凹凸感，制造恍如浅浮雕的视觉效果。叠绣，又称堆绣，是将上过浆的轻薄丝绫面料裁剪折叠成细三角形，堆叠于底布之上，边堆边用针线固定，组合成矩形的饰片。该藏品采用了多种刺绣技艺，做工细致精巧，不可多得。
(ENG) Leishan Chinese characters clothing: mainly black with red embroideries stitched on the sleeves and collar, symbolising auspiciousness and happiness. Wrinkling stitch, appliqué, couched braid stitch rim, counted thread stitch, stem stitch and stack stitch are used. For the wrinkling stitch, 7 to 9 silk threads are first taken and woven into a special embroidery thread that is broad and flat, similar to a girl’s thickly braided hairstyle. The thread is folded in half and fixed with a silk thread through the middle. This creates a thick thread which could be used to embroider different patterns on the fabric. The embroidery stitched with this thread stands out against the flat garment, producing a bas-relief effect. Stack stitch, also known as pile stitch, is made by cutting and folding a piece of glued thin silk fabric into small triangular shapes. These small pieces are then stacked on top of the base cloth, with the sides fixed with needle and thread, to create a rectangular ornament. This item uses a variety of embroidery techniques and its intricate and exquisite workmanship make it a rarity.
（繁）文字衣整體為黑色，在袖子和領子飾有紅色刺繡，有吉祥幸福之寓意。此文字衣運用了皺繡、剪貼繡、辮繡鑲邊、數紗繡、軸繡和疊繡。皺繡先取7-8-9顆絲線編制為一種特殊繡線，這種繡線寬而扁平，形同女孩子的髮辮。將辮線折疊並固定，便形成一種立體並厚實的特殊繡線，再用繡線盤出各種圖案，讓刺繡與底布之間形成凹凸感，製造恍如淺浮雕的視覺效果。疊繡，又稱堆繡，是將上過漿的輕薄絲綾面料裁剪折疊成細三角形，堆疊於底布之上，邊堆邊用針線固定，組合成矩形的飾片。該藏品採用了多種刺繡技藝，做工細緻精巧，不可多得。
(ENG) Leishan Chinese characters clothing: mainly black with red embroideries stitched on the sleeves and collar, symbolising auspiciousness and happiness. Wrinkling stitch, appliqué, couched braid stitch rim, counted thread stitch, stem stitch and stack stitch are used. For the wrinkling stitch, 7 to 9 silk threads are first taken and woven into a special embroidery thread that is broad and flat, similar to a girl’s thickly braided hairstyle. The thread is folded in half and fixed with a silk thread through the middle. This creates a thick thread which could be used to embroider different patterns on the fabric. The embroidery stitched with this thread stands out against the flat garment, producing a bas-relief effect. Stack stitch, also known as pile stitch, is made by cutting and folding a piece of glued thin silk fabric into small triangular shapes. These small pieces are then stacked on top of the base cloth, with the sides fixed with needle and thread, to create a rectangular ornament. This item uses a variety of embroidery techniques and its intricate and exquisite workmanship make it a rarity.
（繁）文字衣整體為黑色，在袖子和領子飾有紅色刺繡，有吉祥幸福之寓意。此文字衣運用了皺繡、剪貼繡、辮繡鑲邊、數紗繡、軸繡和疊繡。皺繡先取7-8-9顆絲線編制為一種特殊繡線，這種繡線寬而扁平，形同女孩子的髮辮。將辮線折疊並固定，便形成一種立體並厚實的特殊繡線，再用繡線盤出各種圖案，讓刺繡與底布之間形成凹凸感，製造恍如淺浮雕的視覺效果。疊繡，又稱堆繡，是將上過漿的輕薄絲綾面料裁剪折疊成細三角形，堆疊於底布之上，邊堆邊用針線固定，組合成矩形的飾片。該藏品採用了多種刺繡技藝，做工細緻精巧，不可多得。
Creator
苗族 The Miao
Date
民国 Republic of China
Rights
贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection
Relation
雷山文字衣 Leishan Chinese Characters Clothing (#24)
Identifier
#27
Coverage
贵州黔东南苗族侗族自治州雷山县 Guizhou Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture Leishan County
Collection
Citation
苗族 The Miao, “雷山文字衣 Leishan Chinese Characters Clothing,” Gifts from Lanmama: Intangible Cultural Heritage of Ethnic Minorities in Guizhou 兰妈妈的礼物——贵州少数民族传统绣织染非遗技艺, accessed April 28, 2024, https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/items/show/101.