雷山苗衣 Leishan Miao Coat
Dublin Core
Title
雷山苗衣 Leishan Miao Coat
Subject
缩宝绣为主 Mainly double-twist knot stitch，绞绣 Couching stitch，叠绣 Stack stitch，剪贴绣 Applique，花草纹 Flower and grass pattern，桃子 Peach，石榴 Pomegranate，蝶纹 Butterfly pattern，盘长纹 Shrivatsa pattern
Description
（简）苗衣的刺绣部分为红底绿花，即用红色底布和各种绿色丝线，如深绿、浅绿、嫩绿等，是典型的雷山服饰特点。此苗衣运用了缩宝绣、绞绣、叠绣和剪贴绣。缩宝绣和皱绣一样，绣线皆由特殊技法编制而成，再将编制好的丝线盘成一个一个的小圆宝，组合刺绣成各种花鸟和动物图案，令刺绣图案和底布之间形成凹凸感，产生浅浮雕效果。雷山地区服饰常以龙纹为主要图案，而该藏品的图案则以花果纹为主，有桃子、石榴，还有很多花蝶纹。另外在绞绣部分有很多汉族文化的图案，如中国八吉图案——盘长。这反映出苗族在生活中也吸收了很多汉族文化，虽无文字，但苗族妇女仍能用她们擅长的针线记录之。
(ENG) Leishan Miao coat: embroidery with typical Leishan ‘red base and green flower’, which refers to various shades of green threads, such as dark green, light green and tender green, used on top of a red base cloth. Double-twist knot stitch, couching stitch, stack stitch and appliqué are used. As with wrinkling stitch, the silk thread used for the double-twist knot stitch has to be first woven using a special technique. Woven silk threads are made into small rounded balls, then combined to form various flower, bird and animal patterns. With this bas-relief effect, the embroidery stands out against the flat garment. Leishan area clothing often uses dragon patterns as the main pattern, yet the pattern of this dress is mainly of flowers and fruits, with peaches, pomegranates and various flower and butterfly patterns. For the couching stitch, many patterns derived from the Han culture can be discerned, including the Chinese Baji pattern-Shrivatsa. Such similar patterns reflect that the Miao people have assimilated considerably with Han culture. Although there is no written text in the Miao dialect, Miao women creatively use their exceptional needlework to record their history.
（繁）苗衣的刺繡部分為紅底綠花，即用紅色底布和各種綠色絲線，如深綠、淺綠、嫩綠等，是典型的雷山服飾特點。此苗衣運用了縮寶繡、絞繡、疊繡和剪貼繡。縮寶繡和皺繡一樣，繡線皆由特殊技法編制而成，再將編制好的絲線盤成一個一個的小圓寶，組合刺繡成各種花鳥和動物圖案，令刺繡圖案和底布之間形成凹凸感，產生淺浮雕效果。雷山地區服飾常以龍紋為主要圖案，而該藏品的圖案則以花果紋為主，有桃子、石榴，還有很多花蝶紋。另外在絞繡部分有很多漢族文化的圖案，如中國八吉圖案——盤長。這反映出苗族在生活中也吸收了很多漢族文化，雖無文字，但苗族婦女仍能用她們擅長的針線記錄之。
(ENG) Leishan Miao coat: embroidery with typical Leishan ‘red base and green flower’, which refers to various shades of green threads, such as dark green, light green and tender green, used on top of a red base cloth. Double-twist knot stitch, couching stitch, stack stitch and appliqué are used. As with wrinkling stitch, the silk thread used for the double-twist knot stitch has to be first woven using a special technique. Woven silk threads are made into small rounded balls, then combined to form various flower, bird and animal patterns. With this bas-relief effect, the embroidery stands out against the flat garment. Leishan area clothing often uses dragon patterns as the main pattern, yet the pattern of this dress is mainly of flowers and fruits, with peaches, pomegranates and various flower and butterfly patterns. For the couching stitch, many patterns derived from the Han culture can be discerned, including the Chinese Baji pattern-Shrivatsa. Such similar patterns reflect that the Miao people have assimilated considerably with Han culture. Although there is no written text in the Miao dialect, Miao women creatively use their exceptional needlework to record their history.
（繁）苗衣的刺繡部分為紅底綠花，即用紅色底布和各種綠色絲線，如深綠、淺綠、嫩綠等，是典型的雷山服飾特點。此苗衣運用了縮寶繡、絞繡、疊繡和剪貼繡。縮寶繡和皺繡一樣，繡線皆由特殊技法編制而成，再將編制好的絲線盤成一個一個的小圓寶，組合刺繡成各種花鳥和動物圖案，令刺繡圖案和底布之間形成凹凸感，產生淺浮雕效果。雷山地區服飾常以龍紋為主要圖案，而該藏品的圖案則以花果紋為主，有桃子、石榴，還有很多花蝶紋。另外在絞繡部分有很多漢族文化的圖案，如中國八吉圖案——盤長。這反映出苗族在生活中也吸收了很多漢族文化，雖無文字，但苗族婦女仍能用她們擅長的針線記錄之。
Creator
苗族
Date
晚清 Late Qing Dynasty
Rights
贵州兰妈妈多彩衣妆苗绣博物馆馆藏 Lanmama Museum Collection
Identifier
#427
Coverage
雷山县西江镇 Leishan County Xijiang Town
Collection
Citation
苗族, “雷山苗衣 Leishan Miao Coat,” Gifts from Lanmama: Intangible Cultural Heritage of Ethnic Minorities in Guizhou 兰妈妈的礼物——贵州少数民族传统绣织染非遗技艺, accessed November 21, 2024, https://lanmama.lib.hku.hk/items/show/88.